The canopy gives you a few options, as I see it. You can cut it out, score it, and call it done. You can also cut the windows out of one of your two copies, then glue parts of the other one inside that frame you’ve made to create a two-level “glass” effect. You could also use clear plastic from a blister pack or flat-sided bottle for the windows, but then you need to put something inside the cockpit (which I’ve already done). I decided to cut out the windows but leave them open (it is just a model after all).
Helpful Hint-- This is one of those cases where size really does matter. The stanchions of the canopy are so thin it’s very hard to get the folds right. Alas, this is a precise piece and if the folds aren’t just right you’ll never get the canopy to fit on the cockpit. What I finally ended up doing was (very carefully) cutting the whole canopy apart and gluing each panel in place seperately. It’s more work, but quicker and cleaner in the long run.
You can repeat this trim on the bottom fuselage if you want more detail down there, but I don’t think you really need it. Even with a flier, how often do you see the bottom of a 40K vehicle? I did it on this one to demonstrate, but it may not happen on the next one.
Helpful Hint-- I wrapped each wing in wax paper and set them Under The Dome for a while after all this, just to make sure they were straight and solid. One of the biggest problems with Paperhammer models (in my experience) is things can tweak and warp as the glue dries. The more layers (and glue) you add to something, the more chance it’s going to start bowing and twisting--expecially when it’s something flat like this. Don’t rush this stage and let things dry as long as they need to dry. I did the wings just before going to bed so they had all night to sit.
I did this trick in reverse with the spare cockpit. I sketched the lines and made the cuts, but I used the inside section for the triangular panels on the front of the cockpit. Extra detail and it bulks that up a bit more.
The lower stabilizers went on now, too. I glued down a thin strip of cardboard on each side first. This gave the stabilizers a bit more to lean on and made it easier to line them up. Plus, it’s just a bit more texture when the model’s done.
This is a bit short, I know, and it’s silly that what’s really a simple model is going to take three posts to explain. Alas, I’m swamped with a few other things right now and I’d rather take a little longer and do it right. After all, I’m theoretically doing this as an example, so rushing stuff doesn’t help anyone.
Next time I’ll show you how to build a ridiculously easy engine for this thing, plus a last few gubbins for detail.
By the way, if you haven’t seen it already, check out Paperhammer 40K. It’s got templates, a forum, and a bunch of other resources for folks trying to learn about origami Necrons and similar fun card constucts.