The Defiler, Pt III

It look like the hit counter passed 10,000 over the weekend. Wow.

Okay, continuing on...

Cut out the leg sockets. They’re the vaguely star-shaped pieces on page four of the template. Glue four of these in place on the back section of the chassis, a little bit in from either end. They should be tall, not wide. The extra two are for the front arms, which we’ll get to in a while.

Start with the front legs. Put white glue on the inside of the socket, then pinch the four “arms” of the socket closed around the wooden bead. You’re probably going to have to hold them for a minute or three, and there will be some readjustment needed as you go. I held them for about five just to be safe. If you plan carefully, you can get both front legs in place and hold them both at the same time.

This Is Important -- Make sure the legs will sit flat once the model is in its standing pose. The more of an angle they’re at, the harder it will be to get the feet/ talons to line up when we get to them.

I did two legs on one Defiler, then moved to the other one and did two on that model. If you’re only working on one, you should probably give it about ten minutes for the glue to firm up before moving on. Once I had all four legs on and they were relatively solid, I flipped it over and put a few drops of glue in key points to make it even stronger. I gave this whole assembly about an hour to dry and it ended up good and rigid. Strong enough that I knew a leg wasn’t going to randomly drop off during a game.

While that lower section was drying, I went to work on the torso.

Actually, before I do that, I want to point out something that may please some of you. The majority of this template focuses on the bottom half of the Defiler and lustandtorment did a fantastic job with that. Something occurred to me the other day, though. What else can you do with the bottom half of a Defiler? To be more specific, what else could you do with the bottom half of a Defiler and the spare torso, head, and arms that come with the new Daemon Prince model?

Food for thought, eh?

So, for the battle cannons, I decided to use the same simple design I used to make an engine for the Hellblade a few weeks back. Cut a piece of card 2 1/4” wide by 3/4” long. You want to do a series of scores on it 1/4” apart, parallel to the short side, so when it’s done your piece of card has nine sections measuring 1/4” wide by 3/4” long. That last section’s going to be a tab, so it’s probably better if you cut the corners down. Roll this piece, glue it on the tab, and clamp it so you’ve got an octagonal cylinder 3/4”long. With me so far?

Next, cut three 1/4” strips that are three or four inches long. Wrap them tight around your hobby knife, a round pencil, or something like that so they get a good curve to them. Now wrap them around your cylinder and cut where appropriate. Glue one strip around the base of each cannon. For reference, the seam should be on the underside of your barrel, if your cannon looks better from one angle than another.

If you feel really daring, cut one strip to fit just inside the muzzle, too. That’ll give the sense of a thick, heavy barrel and help add to the illusion that it’s rounded, not octagonal. If you decide to do this, make sure the seam where the strip comes together is towards the top of the barrel. No one’s going to get a good look at the inside-top of a Defiler cannon.

From here on, I’m going to something slightly different with the cannon for each model. You can pretend these are optional bitz. Feel free to do whichever appeals to you on your own Defiler.

On the Nurgle model I glued the last strip around the barrel’s muzzle. Again try to make these outside-the-barrel seams on these strips line up, because you can hide them all on the underside of the cannon. This should give you a squat, very basic barrel, and it’ll look great once you add a few rivets with the 1/16” hole punch.

For the Khorne Defiler, I cut out eight triangles as shown. Score them down the middle and fold. Glue each of these little “spikes” on the business end of the cannon (creased edge up), butted up against the strip at the base. Make sure you set them on the octagonal edges, not on the flat surface. This will help hide the angular nature of the barrel. The triangle-spikes should end up with just a little bit hanging out over the muzzle, and result in a much more spiky-looking cannon.

Helpful Hint-- If you need to cut out a bunch of triangles for spikes (for Chaos or Orks or whatever) try this. For the ones above, mark out a strip 1/2” wide, then break it down into 1/2” x 1/4” rectangles. Sketch alternate diagonals into the rectangles (left-to-right, right-to-left, left-to-right, and so on). Now you’ve got a row of triangles going both ways, top and bottom. Nothing gets wasted and each cut is effectively cutting a side on two different triangles. Make sense?

There’s your battle cannon. Two versions of it, in fact.

As a final touch, cut a strip of card about 1” long by 1/8” wide. Score it to fit so it folds nicely into a “bracket” for the butt-end of the battle cannon. Now there’s something more substantial for the glue to grab when I attach the cannon to the gun shield.

Speaking of which... when you glue these two pieces together, make sure the cannon is lined up with the bottom edge of the gun shield. It will leave a bit hanging out over the top that you’ll need to fill in later on. I played with placement on this for a while and finally decided the easiest way to mount the cannon was just to make it flush with the front face of the shield. Putting it on top, on the angled section, just mkes it look too high up. If you’re more daring than me (and I’m sure some of you must be) you can try to notch the butt-end of the cannon so it can sit right on the angle of the torso.

That’s all for this time.

Oh, new anthology of the month is Robots Beyond, also from Permuted Press. Check it out.

No comments:

Post a Comment