When I left off, I’d just made some basic exhaust
pipes/ smokestacks. They had some
patches, but I wanted to do a little more to make them each stand out. I cut some narrow triangles, gave them a bit
of a curl, and glues those around the end of one. For another I made a slightly larger cylinder
and glued it on a bit crooked (which also made this smokestack about two inches
taller).
In a moment of inspiration, I repeated the grid I’d done for the rokkit launcher. This time,
though, I used the hole punch on every other section rather than gluing pieces
there. The result was the nice little ventilator topping the last pipe.
Helpful Hint—As I’m adding all these patches
and decorations on the smokestacks, I want to keep in mind which way they’re
going to be facing. About 3/4 of each
cylinder will be against the gargant’s back, so I’m going to have the seam face
that way. What this means, though, is
that’s the side that will be visible at the top. So decorate (and hide things)
accordingly.
I put a cross-tab in the base of each smokestack (just like I’ve done for gun barrels) and then glued them in place on the engine
piece I built last week. I let this
whole thing dry for a bit. I wasn’t
super-worried though—these would be straight up-and-down joins, so there wouldn’t
be a lot of stress on them.
In the meantime there was something else I wanted to do with
the back. Forgeworld put out their Warlord Titan a few months ago (don't look at the price tag), and one of the things I really love
(well, I love all of it, but...) is the whole beautiful boarding port with a
doorway, catwalks, sentry guns, and more. Very Pacific Rim. It’s a fantastic piece of detail, and I
decided to copy it here. Sort of
First, though... that means it’s time to glue the two body
sections together. Which also means it’s
time to glue the feet in place. I put
the arms in place and played with the feet a bit until I found a good, solid
balance point. I glued the feet first. A
few books on top of the abdomen let them dry flat and solid. Then the torso went on top of that—again with
the books pressing down. With that
done... back to our boarding area.
The doorway was a pair of cardstock panels I gave them some detail strips and rivets. Normally I’d do this a bit later in the
process, but I knew this would be a little tight and awkward once it was all in
place, so I just did them now. Then I
made a foamcore arch by cutting a 5" x 3 1/2" rectangle and then cutting out the
inside of it. This was edged and glued
over the door panels. Solid entranceway,
just like that. I glued the whole
assembly in place down at the base of the thorax’s back, right next to the
engine sections.
I made a simple catwalk with some foamcore and a few
triangles. I edged these with cardstock
and added some plates and patches along the surface. I considered adding a safety rail. But the more I thought about it, a safety
rail seems like a very un-Orky thing.
I’d buy it in something they looted, but not something they built pretty
much from scratch.
I placed the catwalk so it stretched from where the engine
section will sit to the natural walkway along the gargant’s “hip.” Now it’s all one long walkway. If the boss needs to kick someone out to do
repairs, this entrance gives access to both arms and even some front sections.
I liked the look of this area so much that I used the inside
piece from the arch to make another, slightly smaller arch and add a door to
the back of the gargant’s head. I built
it the same way except I designed this one as a single door not a double. Again, all the rivets and edging was done
before I attached it to the head. Now
the meks and grots have easy access to the shoulders and upper weaponry.
By this time the smokestack/engine assembly was pretty
solid. I glued it to the larger foamcore
piece on the back of the abdomen. Then I
added a few “straps” across the different stacks. They looked good and actually added a degree
of support. A few big cardstock circles
below the engine block finished this off and gave it a nice look.
You may remember earlier this year I built a nice little
promethium pipe scenery piece to make up for the very limited GW
one. I haven’t used that piece for
anything, so I decided to add it to the gargant, too. I put a “patch” on it to give it a more Orky
look, then glued it in place next to my engine piece. The last smokestack went on top of that.
A few last details...
I added on some random plates here and there to visually
fill up some of the bare space. I also
added a few bamboo skewers to the arms as pistons and on the back as thin
pipes. It was all more texture than
detail.
I decided to make another supa-rokkit. But I decided to cheat a little bit. Rather than making a full rokkit like I did before, I decided to make a “sheathed” rokkit in a launch pod, like the extra one I used on the Skullhamma. This meant the rokkit
was just a rectangular box with circles on either end and an extra panel or
three. To be honest, this worked well
enough—and was so quick—that I might make a second one for the other arm. We’ll
see...
I also felt a little odd about the deffkannonz not having an
ammunition belt like the Stompa model does.
I’d been mulling over way to make twin belts, and I came up with a
pretty solid (if time-intensive) way to do it.
But the more I thought about it, the more I felt it wouldn’t look quite
right. Something like a belt needs to
hang just right to get the sense of mass across, and I didn’t think I could
manage it
What I could do, though, was a big pair of drum magazines,
one for either side of the deffkannonz. To make them stand out a bit (and to
add to that Orky sense of asymmetry), I decided to make one round and one
octagonal. Also, clearly, because I hate
myself and feel the need to suffer more...
The octagon was the harder of the two, just because I had to
do a bunch of math and measurements to get it all just right. Geometry wins again, even if a few of
my measurements were a bit off... Hey, Orks, am I right? I glued tabs around one of the octagons,
putting a tab on every other edge. Then
I cut a 1 1/4” strip of cardstock for the body, measured and scored it, and
glued it onto the tabs. All of this got
clothespins to keep it tight and solid.
While it dried I added tabs to the other octagon and connected them.
The round drum was pretty straightforward. Two discs about 2” in diameter (I traced the
lid from a baby food jar), each with the same notch cut out. Well, mirror-cut
on one. Once I had those, I put the drum
together just like the octagon. I
attached both of them, and then put the new supa-rokkit on top of that. What was once the scrawny arm is starting to
look a little bulked up.
The rivet fairy isn’t showing up. I’m going to have to put all these on by
myself.
I used my 1/16th hole punch to make about four hundred
or so rivets and... well, got to work.
The engine. The weapons. The odd panel here and there on the body. Lots on the head. I spent about six solid hours on rivets (four
SyFy movies worth). They’re definitely
the big time-suck in a project this size.
Helpful Hint—I’ve mentioned this before, but
it’s worth repeating. Rivets add so much
to these Paperhammer models, but there’s something worth keeping in mind.
You’re making a piece that’s not much wider than it is thick, so the
cardboard tends to “flake” a bit. It’s not unusu
al for a rivet to peel apart into two or three sections of paper, only one of which is glued to the model. It happens I’d say it happens to about one out of five. Make extra rivets, use a little extra white glue so it soaks through, and be patient.
And I think... that makes this done.
Three-fourths as many posts as the Imperial Knight, but about 1/3 the time. Maybe actually one fourth. The joy of going fast and loose with Ork engineering. I think this was really a solid week of work, maybe ten days, tops, interrupted by a lot of editing and a few conventions.
Total cost... Well, there was about twenty dollars worth of foamcore. I went through three bottles of white glue at a dollar and change each—call that four dollars. The bamboo skewers were leftover from another project, but even if they weren’t they were a dollar at the 99 Cent Store. All the cardstock was pizza and cereal boxes which were bought for their contents. So altogether, the Gargant cost around twenty five dollars (and the bulk of it was foamcore which you might have better access to than I did). I think that makes this my most expensive project here at In The Grim Cheapness of the Future... since the Grotesques.
Now... I need to get it primed and painted for this weekend. I’ll try to get some in-process shots up before then, and maybe one last post about names and color schemes next week.
Three-fourths as many posts as the Imperial Knight, but about 1/3 the time. Maybe actually one fourth. The joy of going fast and loose with Ork engineering. I think this was really a solid week of work, maybe ten days, tops, interrupted by a lot of editing and a few conventions.
Total cost... Well, there was about twenty dollars worth of foamcore. I went through three bottles of white glue at a dollar and change each—call that four dollars. The bamboo skewers were leftover from another project, but even if they weren’t they were a dollar at the 99 Cent Store. All the cardstock was pizza and cereal boxes which were bought for their contents. So altogether, the Gargant cost around twenty five dollars (and the bulk of it was foamcore which you might have better access to than I did). I think that makes this my most expensive project here at In The Grim Cheapness of the Future... since the Grotesques.
Now... I need to get it primed and painted for this weekend. I’ll try to get some in-process shots up before then, and maybe one last post about names and color schemes next week.
Back in the old days when they did modelling articles in White Dwarf they would often use bits of sprue as rivets; have you ever done this?
ReplyDeleteI would love to see finished, painted versions of your projects. Perhaps they're already on the site, but if so I keep missing them!
I've tried to do the sprue-as-rivets thing on a few plastic projects, but I keep hitting two problems...
Delete1) The round parts of the sprue are usually in the 1/8" range--way too large to pass as rivets with the current esthetic. Mine are 1/16" and they look too big in places.
2) Besides size, it takes an insanely sharp blade and ultra-precise cuts to not end up with chunky, lopsided pieces.
Honestly, if I ever did anything big in plastic, I'd probably just get some thin plasticard and keep using the hole punch.
I'm very far behind on my painting. It's the toughest part for me. Before the end of the year, though, I'm hoping to do a "painted" post with the gargant, Imperial Knight, Plaguereaper/Baneblade, and maybe a few other things.
As ever, White Dwarf makes it looks easier than it is!
DeleteDamn Rivet Fairies. Never around when you really need them.
ReplyDeleteAllTired and Paperhammer units know the 'Summon Rivet Faerie' spell, in addition to any other spells they know.
Delete